By: Julie Smith
Email: julies95 at pacbell.net

A Different Kind of Sand Lot

Situated unostentatiously in southwestern Utah, among its more notable neighbors Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, lies the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park.

Located twelve miles off U.S. Highway 89, near Kanab, the park encompasses over 3,700 acres of surreal landscape. This colossal sandbox is a tucked away destination for off-highway vehicle (OHV) enthusiasts, hikers, photographers, and those simply seeking quietude.

We made the four hour jaunt northeast of Las Vegas to ride all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) without the infamous crowds associated with Dumont and Glamis Dunes in Southern California. Though the dunes aren’t nearly as tall as the aforementioned locales, riding abounds in this salmon colored landscape and the scenery is unrivaled.

Sand, strong winds, and a unique influence upon the wind are the elements necessary for sand dune formation. The unique influence in this geologic setting is a notch between the Moquith and Moccasin Mountains.

Wind is channeled through the notch where its velocity is increased to such a point that it can carry sand grains from the eroding Navajo sandstone. When the wind hits the open valley speeds diminish, the sand is deposited, and presto, coral pink sand dunes.

We pulled in the Monday before Easter in a race with menacing clouds rolling in from the east. Since the park is located at an elevation of 6,000 feet, we knew there was a good chance of wind, rain and potentially snow. We got all three.

The picnic table and fire pit sat dormant the first night. Strong winds kept most campers inside RV’s and tents playing cards and sipping hot cocoa. We even resorted to wearing riding goggles when we ventured outdoors to keep sand out of our eyes.

Anxious to test my four season tent, I refused many hospitable offers for a cozy motor home berth. Sleep was difficult, though, as wind battered my tiny abode from every direction. If not for the strategically placed firewood and my body weight, the tent could have quickly become an unidentified flying object streaking through the sky.

Sometime in the middle of the night the clouds’ silver lining leaked out and in the morning we awoke to four inches of powdery snow and an ominous gray sky.

Due to the inclement weather, much of the day we were relegated to the cramped indoors and denied access to the parks 1,200 acres designated for OHV usage.

In the afternoon cabin fever overcame us and the dunes beckoned with their siren song. Even though it was a chilling 32 degrees outside and still snowing, we donned our waterproof gear and conveniently rode our ATVs from the campsite to the dunes access trail.

Fresh snow blanketed the mountains of windblown sand and provided for a slick but exciting ride. Snow ball fights take on a whole new meaning with paddle tires.

The following day was what we had all anticipated. Clouds made their hasty retreat exposing brilliant azure sky; the color of sky that only exists on the far reaches of the globe. The wind ceased its ravage and most of the snow melted leaving only small patches that clung desperately to existence as the threatening sun ascended. The coral sand was bright with moisture and loaded with traction.

We took several long rides, one to the northern limits of the park and another through Sand Spring Gully on the back side of the dunes, hardly seeing a soul.

Sharp curves through the gully kept us on our toes as we side winded through western sage brush and piñon pines. Rangers strongly encourage riders to stay on marked trails and not to disturb vegetation.

Away from the main dune field, vegetation thickens and the chances of spotting wildlife increase. Though we saw several fresh tracks in the sand, possibly from coyotes or mule deer, we never got a true sighting. We were also unsuccessful in our attempts to spot the endemic Coral Pink Sand Dune Tiger Beetle.

Though the park is open year round don’t expect to visit in the midst of winter and get much riding time. Typically, the region is under a heavy blanket of snow.

According to Rob Quist, Park Manager, high season generally begins around spring break and runs through the end of September. Unpredictable weather, moderate and often chilly temperatures characterize the spring and fall months. The summer, however, can get down right blistery with minuscule amounts of precipitation.

Each of the parks 22 pull through campsites includes a picnic table, barbecue grill, and fire pit. There are no hook-ups, but there are modern restrooms with hot showers. There is also one group site which can accommodate five parties.

There is a convenient sewage dump station and water spigots are located throughout the campground. Cell phones are useless, but there is a pay phone by the ranger station/visitors center at the entrance to the park.

Reservations are not required, but are highly recommended. Unreserved sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Individual campsite reservations cost $14/ day and may be made a minimum of three days in advance of the arrival date and up to 16 weeks in advance of departure date. Group reservations may be made up to 11 months in advance.

Reservations can be made by calling Utah State Parks and Recreation at 801-322-3770 or 800-322-3770, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. MST Monday through Friday. For more information visit http://www.stateparks.utah.gov/parks/www1/cora.htm.

In addition to the dunes there are hundreds of miles of trails and several developed four-wheel drive roads located on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land adjacent to the park.
On the northern end of the park a large open area coined the dry lake bed sits on BLM land. People are allowed to camp here for free, however, there are no facilities and no quiet hours.
If good weather is with you, 3-4 days at the Coral Pink Sand Dunes will give you enough time to explore the dunes and trails within the park. Many visitors even use the dunes campground as a base for treks to the national and state parks that pepper southern Utah and northern Arizona.